Friday, October 12, 2012

Faveorite foods from India!

Alex's top 5 foods:
1. Dosa (plain with an assortment of chutneys... tomato, coconut, mango, mint...)
2. Banana Lassi (fruit and yogurt smoothie)
3. Papdi Chaat (sweet  and spicy tamarind sauce with sour yogurt, mint chutney over some sort of crispy bread... I also had it over "crispy spinach")
4.Tali (vegetarian)
5. Kheer (spicy rice pudding with dried fruits and nuts)

Shelly's top 5 foods:
1. Chicken durbari
2. Mugalai chicken
3. Brain curry (made the train trip to Amaritsur worth it)
4. White fish
5. Tali

The Train

We headed for Amritsar to see the Golden Temple (and some other stuff) by train. According to the tour package, we would travel first class in maharaja and maharani style. Upon pickup and transport to the train station, we learned our tickets were for coach class. (insert ominous music).

There is no American (or European) equivalent to coach seats on an Indian train. The train car was packed. I do not exaggerate when I say that there were more people than seats in our train car. When large families travel together on a train, they dont always by tickets for children (and Im not referring to toddlers...). Consequently, there are always people standing in the narrow aisles. Children bounce in their seat, cry and shout for something. Old men were passing out candy which only exacerbated the bouncing child problem. (However, it probably would have temporarily appeased me). To entertain themselves, people were playing their radios out loud (without headphones). For 7 hours I had the pleasure of listening to screaming children, Bollywood music, religious music and talk radio.

La Toillette, in name only, was a less than charming experience. I was prepared for an experience - not so clean, perhaps a bit smelly... But I was not prepared for a closet-sized room with an open hole in  the floor. What ever you put into the hole went directly on the tracks below! I must admit there two important advantages to such "toillettes" First, there is no mysterious water on the floor (because everything has gone out the hole). Second, there is no smell since the room is well ventilated! Nonetheless, I only used the facilities once during the seven hour trip...

The Train was in an experience that will likely make any other train ride seem grande.

Monday, October 8, 2012

Wagah India - PAkistan border

The India / Pakistan border (near Amritser) is a party! The border crossing consists of circular stadium, divided in half by a large double gate with half on each side of the border. Bollywood music blares in the stadium. On the Indian side, people are dancing in the middle of the stadium and waving flags. The PAkistan side was comparatively empty and quiet (though it was hard to see what was happening on that side).

The representatives from the respective militaries take down their flags at sun down in a spectacular ceremony of pomp. A half dozen tall officers march out of the barracks. They line up and the first man screams for as long as he can hold it. Then stomps, kick his leg like a rocket, stomps again, straightens his frilly fan hat and speeds walks to the gate with arms swinging vigorously (repeat several times). They swing the gate open with vigor and lots of screaming. Then remove the flag and speed walk back to the barracks. The whole ceremony takes 20 minutes, withe the crowd screaming for the duration! It was quite possibly one of the most interesting military ceremonies that I have witnessed!

Saturday, October 6, 2012

A bottle of Merrrrrr-LOT!

In India, wine is not easy to come by and is relatively expensive in restaurants/bars (the least expensive bottle costs the same as a moderately priced bottle in the US and it's rarely sold by the glass)

We thought a bottle of wine would be lovely while watching bollywood movies in our hotel room, so we asked our driver if we could stop by a bottle shop before returning to the hotel. The driver got on the phone and call his people and get a bottle for us. He handed the phone to Shelly to give further instruction to our wine-wallah. He requested a "red wine" in a specified price range. And then I shopped!

While shopping, our wine-wallah called through the shop keeper for further instruction as to what sort of wine. Shelly went with merlot (something commonly found and east to spell). I continued to shop.

About 15 minutes later, the wine wallah called again. He find a bottle of "Merrrrrr- LOTTT" (pronounced by rolling the r and emphasizing the last syllable and the final t). He wanted to know if the brand he found was appropriate: (pronounced as) jak-oh-BEEE crrrrr-ACK. Shelly (who is communicating on the phone wi the wine wallah in Hindi - not his proffered language) asked if I had heard of it. I looked up from the cocktail rings I was looking at and said I had no idea...

Ten minutes later, the wine- wallah showed up wi the wine. He places a black plastic bag on the table and pulled out a box of whiskey - not even close to what we asked for. Then he opened the box, and pulled out a cabernet Sauvignon - merrrrrrloTTT blend from Jacobs Creek. This, I was familiar with - Mission Accomplished! The wine wallah was particulaly impressed with himself because he had bargained down the price!

I admit, I was nervous about what we would end up with, but pleasantly surprised! In India, there is always a man who can get you what you want (for a price).

Veranassi

Veranassi is an imporant site for two of the major religions: Hinduism and Buddhism. Nearly 5 million pilgrims and tourists visit the city each year. And yet, the city is intensely poor and rundown. There are people (and cows, and goats, and monkeys, and dogs...) everywhere. As a result, the city has a certain... Scent...

We went to the Ganges at 5:30 in the morning with the pilgrims. The pilgrims
Move in flocks like birds. Many had musical accompaniment for their procession. At the ghats (steps /terraces) along the river, priests sit on platforms under umbrellas and bless the pilgrims as they enter the water to bathe and then exit. The incense they burn mask the other characteristic scents of the city.

From our boat on the water we could see the cremation pores burning. The crematoriums along the water run nearly 24 hours. According to our guide, all Hindus are cremated, except children, pregnant women, individuals who die of snake bites and those die of some sort of viral infection (or chicken pox, small pox etc). The bodies of these people are put into the river. The attach stones to the body with strings. When the strings disintegrate the decomposing corpse rises to the surface.

After the boat ride we walked through the "old" city. The streets are no more than 3feet wide and crowded with people, cows, dogs, monkeys and the occasional bicycle. People are sleep in the gutters. People sweep trash off their stoop into the street, but don't actually move the trash. The streets are intense, dense chaos.

Sunday, September 30, 2012

Top 5 foods from Thailand

Alex's top 5:
1. Mango
2. Papya salad (in particular the one made by a woman at the Waronot market in Chiang Mai)
3. Kalad salad with prawns
4. Durian
5. Thai iced coffee

Shelly's top 5:
1. Pad Thai
2. Sticky rice with mango
3. Thai coffee
4. Coconut curry chicken served in a coconut
5. Banana flower curry

Traffic in New Delhi

Driving in New Delhi is a harrowing experience, especially for passengers. I think I've had several mini myocardial infarctions in the 16 hours I have been here (10 of which were safely spent eating and sleeping).

There are no traffic laws - at least none that are universally followed. To turn or cross a street, the edges fearlessly into traffic that is traveling at breathtaking speeds. If you are in a passenger seat, yogurt to look at cars, motorcycles, auto-rickshaws that are barreling towards you and do not appear to be breaking. Shelly assured me that they will always stop because the process and expense of having to bribe other drivers, witnesses and police are not worth getting into an accident. The process of merging or changing lanes is also harrowing, especially there are no real lanes. Vehicles get within inches of each other and travel in such proximity for several minutes. I fear that if a driver were to sneeze or hiccup there would be an accident!

As I write, we are en route to Agra. Although it is approximately 185 km, the driver estimates that it will take 5 hours! I will likely spend most of it reading since I may have a major myocardial infarction if I watch the traffi!

Massage or torture?

Thai massage is an experience that straddles the line between therapeutic relief and pain. I have had two thai massages - both deliciously painful. Thai massage can best be described as yoga for lazy people with a sadistic streak.

The first was in Bangkok. After residing through flooded streets in a tropical downpour, I arrived at the massage palor and was greeted with herbal tea an handed pajamas to change in to. I couldn't figure out the pants and the masseuse had to help me (slightly embarrassing). In this place, the massage tables / beds are set up in rows in large rooms... Like in a hospital emergency room. You don't get a private room as in the US. Everone can witness you as your joints pop and snap and you grimace and moan. Fortunately, Shelly and I were the only ones receiving massages.

The masseuse was a small Thai woman (maybe two inches taller than me and 10 pounds heavier), but freakishly strong. It felt lineage was kneading apart each fibre of muscle! Each time I gasped, she giggled and promised to be softer. Normally, her routine involves walking on the "victims" back and upper legs. She mercifully skipped that and continued to pound away by hand. My favorite part is when the work on your hips and IT band. Others may find that a but too personal since it involves kneading your flutes and lifting your leg over their head and then across your body. But for a runner, it's divine! They also twist and arch your back to make it snap and pop like they are twisting bubble wrap. I think I was three inches taller after. But, I cannot lie, I was incredibly sore the next day. It hurt so good!

Since Shelly was on the bed next to me, I could hear (and at times see him) being tortured (this is how I knew that the masseuses walk on your back as part of the tortuous treatment). I could hear his joints popping, to which his masseuse said "oops" or "uhoh" and giggled. At the end he could reach down and touch his toes, which he hasn't been able to since he was a kid. But, he was also limping noticeably!

Massage torture: Part 2!
Our hotel in Chiang Mai offered a free massage for each guest. I jumped at the opportunity. Shelly wimped out and opted for a foot massage. The concierge asked if I preferred to have my massage by the pool or in my room. There was no way I was getting my torture massage in public! This massage was less intense but still deliciously painful. And yes, I was sore for the next 2 day!

PS: I had developed tendinitis in my hip flexor before I left. Yesterday, I ran 5 miles without pain. I think I am cured. I wonder if I can write some of my travel expenses off on my taxes as medical expenses...

Thursday, September 27, 2012

Into the jungle

We took a two day hike into the jungle of Northern Thailand (2 hours north of Chiang Mai and approximately 2 hours southeast of Burma). The first day involved a 3 hour continuous ascent- it was like walking up Mt Bonnell for 3 hours in 90 degrees through mud, rocks, grass and elephant poo. (our guide gave brief tutorial on elephant poo. I can now tell you what an elephant ate and it's approximate age based on the poo. I can't wait to share at a cocktail party!) Elephant tracks served as stairs for much of the hike. We passed through an elephant training camp and saws couple elephants being ridden and a couple lazy ones sleeping in the shade.

At some point during the hike, I brushed up against something to which I was allergic. I had an itchy blotch on my arm three quarters of the way through. The guide gave me this mysterious balm to put on it that worked likes charm. But by the end of the hike, I was covered in hives and wanted to crawl out of my skin! When we arrived at the village where we were stating, I jumped into the "shower" to wash off what I was covered in. The "shower" was essentially a hose with a spray nozzle in a small metal stall about 3 ft by 3 ft with a toilette in the middle. The water was ICE cold (from natural springs on the mountain). It was rustic and minimalist but worked!

The hike ended at a Lahu village where we spent the night in a bamboo hut (and, yes I mean hut - no electricity, no hot water and dubious plumbing). The hut was raised about 4ft off the ground so that you weren't on the earth. But, animals, including chickens, cats and dogs passed underneath. There were many weird noises underneath us during the night including fierce cat fight. Although our accommodations were Spartan, the view was spectacular!

I spent the remainder of the afternoon learning how to use a slingshot. Several hours later, I was a decent shot (I could injure someone in a crowd, but am not good enough to hunt dinner with it)

We cooked dinner over a wood fire on the floor of the hut. Admittedly, I was skeptical of the sanitary conditions in which the food was prepared. Dinner consisted of sweet and sour chicken, mushrooms with tofu, grilled whole fish, and rice. It was surprisingly tasty and we didn't get sick.

Our guide attempted to serenade us on the guitar with pink flloyd and bob Dylan classics. While his guitar skills were good, he didn't know the lyrics that well...
Due to the lack if electricity, we went to bed shortly after sunset. I was exhausted and slept fairly well. I woke up a couple times due to the animal skirmishes below the hut. I felt the need to wake SHelly from a dead sleep a couple times when I was scared. He told me he wasn't going under to look and promptly fell back asleep.

We awoke the next morning to a rooster crowing underneath the hut. It was quite the wale up call. Since it was a bit chilly at the top of the mountain, I opted not to take a morning ice shower.

Breakfast consisted of tea, pancakes (made of a mystery grain - maybe corn meal), pineapple, and bananas. It was the best pineapple ever. I ate almost the whole thing (I let shelly have two small pieces).

We hiked down the mountain (a very steep descent) to a waterfall, where took a very chilly "shower". To get to the waterfall, I had to climb over wet rocks. I *almost* took a bad fall, but just went a bit further into the water than I had intended.
We then hiked along the river for another hour before going rafting for an hour. We were supposed to raft further, but due to the height of the river it was considered unsafe ( two weeks ago another tourist fell out of the raft upriver and broke his leg in several places).

Needless to say, it was quite the adventure and I had no idea what I had signed up for. I would definitely do it again!

Sunday, September 23, 2012

Blessed

We visited four Wats (temples) today:
At Wat Phro, I was blessed by a Buddhist monk (for giving a donation of fruits- it took a lot of self control not to steal a bits of pineapple)
At the Reclining Buda, I donated 180 coins ( an auspicious number)
At the Temple of Dawn, I put 17 spoons of oil into a lamp to bring "light" and luck,
At the Jade Buda, I was hit onthe head with a lotus flower and water to bring good health.

This should be a great year!!!!

Saturday, September 22, 2012

Sketchy or spectacular?

We arrived late last bight in Bangkok and were welcomed by an eager little man from the hotel holding a sign saying "mr Alexandra and partner". He wisked us away in sedan with tinted windows, blasting air conditioning, and bad 80s music playing. Since it was pitch black out, we couldn't see where we were going. After a 40 minute drive through the city we pull up along the a door on a white wall with a very small sign that said "phra Arthur pier". The driver says it will be just a minute and hands me a paper to sign that states that he dropped us off at the pier...
This is the beginning of a Lifetime Network movie...
Fifteen minutes later a man dressed in black emerges from the door and leads us down a narrow alley. We emerge on a small private pier where a boat is waiting for us. The boat takes across directly across the river to a spectacular hotel! Another men escorts us directly to our room where there is complimentary plate of sweets, mini-bannanas and other mysterious fruits (to be Identified today) and glasses of fresh pineapple juice. If this is what it's like to be kidnapped. Take me.

Friday, September 21, 2012

Hip hop goes the kangaroo into Shelly's belly

After feeding kangaroos at an animal sanctuary in Tasmania, Shelly proclaimed that he wanted to eat kangaroo. We found a restaurant in Melbourne that trained indigenous kids as professional chefs that supposedly served excellent kangaroo. Shelly was not disappointed - everything he hoped and dreamed in the grilled loin of an animal that hopped! Meanwhile, I enjoyed a lively AUstralian Cabernet that I assume was fertilized with kangapoo!

Thursday, September 20, 2012

Wine glass bay

Wine Glass Bay is a spectacular isolated beech that can only be reached by foot. The hike involves a 3 km uphill hike over a mountain and another 3.5 km down the backside of of the mountain. According to the guidebook, the hike should take approximately fours hours. Shelly decided we would do it in 3 hours.
During the marathon, Shelly had no problem stopping at water stops and walking for a bit. On this hike, there was no stopping and all power walking! (I should have brought a gu on the hike). We saw one guy trail running and I looked over at Shelly and saw twinkle in his eye. If he hadn't been wearing nice pants, I think he would have taken off after the runner.
We made it to the top in about 45 minutes (slightly behind "schedule"). There is a spectacular look out at the top of the mountain (before descending to the beach). Most people stop to take a couple pictures, have some water and may be a snack. Shelly paused briefly to take two pictures and hustled me along. He wanted to make up time on the descent.
During the marathon, I didn't sweat much since it was a pleasant 60 degrees, but on the hike, when it was in the low 50s, I started to sweat and was peeling off layers.We made good time on the descent into the beech, according to Shelly.
Wine glass bay is quite possibly the most spectacular beech. Since, it's a bit of hike to get too, it is perfectly pristine. It is a half mile of the whitest and finest sand. No rocks, only a couple pale purple oyster shells. Since its called Wine glass Bay, we thought it was appropriate to have some wine on the beech. We sat sipping wine and watching the wallabies hop along the beach doing business. (this was not part of the timed portion of the hike)
We went back up the mountain, without stopping at the lookout and back down in *excellent* time. Shelly was quite pleased with the speed with which we completed hike!

Monday, September 17, 2012

Welcome to Hobart!

This little dude welcomed us at the airport. At first I thought contraband sniffing seal from quarantine services that would smell out my larabars and Luna bars (I'd be doomed without emergency snacks for the rest of the trip!). But it's a "welcome to Hobart" from a tour group

Footnote: Because Tasmania (and australia) have been isolated for so long, they have huge problems with invasive species, insect pests, and bacterial and viral plant and animal outbreaks that have devastated sectors of the agricultural industry. The best example is the rabbit! A boy got a (pregnant) pet rabbit (from mainland Australia). It reproduced and reproduced, and reproduced... And they ate entire crops! Since there are no natural predators, they had to catch them by hand!

Saturday, September 15, 2012

The Sydney Marathon

Hips don't lie! That was tough. Napoleon Bonaparte's comment aptly describes my experience:
"I drink champagne in victory to celebrate. I drink champagne in defeat to console myself"

Friday, September 7, 2012

Heat warnings!

Yesterday, I received a friendly email from the Sydney Marathon. This perky little email included a heat warning:

In preparation for potentially warm conditions on race day, we recommend that all participants in the Blackmores Sydney Marathon and Blackmores Half Marathon do some training in the middle of the day

... or train in Austin in the summer

The fact that I will have run two marathons in six months on two different continents for which heat warnings have been issued is surely an indicator global warming. 

Tuesday, September 4, 2012

The Runabout

Aborigines, go on a long "Walkabout" to discover the world and their role in it. After finishing my dissertation, I have decided to take an epic trip around the world to re-discover the world outside of the cube in which I have toiled away for five years. Since I start in Australia with a marathon, I refer to this trip as my Runabout!

P.S. The title of this blog is not intended to disparage the aboriginal culture or the spiritual importance of the Walkabout. I am just being witty.